Monitor heater flame rod

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Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts. It only takes a minute to sign up. I am learning electronics and I just got stumped. I was just looking at a flame sensor and it appears to have only has one connector. I thought sensors in general need two wires to form a complete circuit. How can current travel from the flame to the rod to create a complete circuit?

If you wanted to measure the voltage or current of the sensor on an open flame, how can this be done with a multimeter? What do you reference it against? I thought the metal collar was a grounding point, but this is used to bolt the sensor to a furnace.

Is the furnace acting as a reference point? The other connection in the circuit is the flame being in contact with a metal surface that acts as a ground.

monitor heater flame rod

Most every flame rod system I have worked on puts and AC voltage on the flame rod. Depending on the system this voltage may be between 80 and volts. Without a flame present in the system you can only verify an AC voltage from the Flame Rod to ground. When a flame contacts the flame rod part of the flame MUST be in contact with a metal surface - such as a nozzle where the gas and air combine.

A DC electrical current is established that flows from the flame rod through the flame and to ground. The DC current can be measured with a micro amp meter in series. I believe that the general principal is that the AC voltage ionizes carbon particles in the flame which conduct the current.

Gas and air mixtures affect the flame rod signal. IF the flame pulls away from the nozzle, such as a higher firing rate, there will be intermittent flame detection as the ground path is usually lost. The flame sensor in your photo uses the electrode in the flame vs. The flame has nonlinear like a diode characteristics that allow it to be very reliably distinguished between a proper gas flame and an open, a short or a resistance due to soot or moisture between the electrode and ground.

This is vitally important, because if the gas valve is left on with no flame, the gas will eventually find an ignition source, and Ka BOOM! Don't fool with this stuff lightly, there is significant redundancy and other considerations required to make a safe, approved and legally acceptable ignition controller.

I'm not a plumber, but I think the answer is that the flame carries the current and that the other terminal is the grounded nozzle of the flame jet. Flame is a plasma and a conductor.

Edit: Poking around on the web, this might not be a thermocouple but a flame rectification sensor. I suggest that it is actually the hot sensor rod that does the rectifying.My kerosene Monitor Heater displays a "E" code and will not fire.

I cleaned both strainers and reassembled. It still won't work. Dear folks, I have a v megablender with 3. Yes I know the cycles are different but I figured that one out and it's OK. The blender is watts. How big of a step-down transformer do I need. I was hoping that watts would be enough but then I Is the lexmark series printer compatible with windows vista?

Where do I start to narrow down the problem? Or what might the obvious problem be? Thank you, Lisa. I have a two story house, 12 years old. Temperature upstairs is five or six degrees hotter in summer than downstairs. The air coming out of the vents is very cool. The problem is air flow volume to the 2nd floor. Remember Me?

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Find questions to answer Find today's questions Find unanswered questions. Search Topics. Login Not a member? Join our community. Dec 13,PM. I have a 4 year oldmonitor which has been totally reliable until recently. I have been through the error 14 stage with dirty filters at the tank and at the heater as well as running out of fuel.

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This problem is error 13 where the unit fires up for approx 2 minutes then shuts down, I removed and cleaned the flame rod detector which seemed to eliminate the problem for about a week although the dealer says that is never the problem, I tried plugging into a different outlet ground problem?

The manufacturer has been totally unhelpful and although my local distributor is trying his best, he says it probably has to be totally rebuilt.

When it does run, it has a beautiful wide, ble flame. Here is a copy of your owners manual. Copy to your computer for future reference. It will take awhile to DL. Note air bubble in fuel line will cause shut down at different times.

Great heaters. Nov 18,PM. We've been getting an error code of 14 on the display TheHandyman Posts: 1, Reputation: 1.

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Apr 10,PM. Error Code 13 is for "No Ignition". The Causes are: Failure of igniter, solenoid pump or circuit board.The MPI Monitor heater M runs on clear kerosene, with a flue leading to the chimney or the outdoors for safe indoor heating. To keep your heater running safely and efficiently, it's important to keep it clean, both on the outside and the inside.

Your MPI Monitor heater must be free of surrounding clutter. Don't use the heater as a table -- it's not the place to set pictures, figurines or plants. Likewise, never drape fabric over the heater or use it as a clothing dryer. Keep papers, books and trash away from the heater, and never keep any kind of flammable material, such as cleaning solvents, alcohol and aerosols, in the vicinity of the heater.

The exterior cabinet of your MPI Monitor heater should be dusted frequently to prevent clogged vents. Simply run a static duster over the cabinet at least once a week while you do you regular light cleaning in the room.

If the exterior looks dingy, wipe it down with a damp microfiber cloth. Do not use abrasive or flammable cleaners. If you use an all-purpose cleaner on the cabinet, spray it on the cloth, not the heater. Periodic cleaning of the inside of your MPI Monitor heater helps to keep the unit running efficiently. Before cleaning the inside, turn off the heater and allow it to cool completely. Remove the screws around the edge of the heater's louvers.

Vacuum the interior using a brush hose attachment to remove dust, cobwebs and dirt. Remove any small objects that may have fallen inside through the vents. Wipe away any excess dust and dirt with a microfiber cloth.

Once a year, the MPI Monitor heater's fuel strainer must be cleaned. This job requires you to turn off the kerosene tank's shutoff valve. Place a cardboard-lined container under the fuel strainer cover, located on the lower right side of the unit.I ran out of K-1 last night and had gallons delivered today.

monitor heater flame rod

Now the heater isn't running right. I've been on the phone off and on all day with my oil company's service department and they have walked me thru several steps but nothing seems to work. After it heats up to the set temperature it shuts itself off. It is not set on auto or economy. I have pushed and held down the red button on the side. I do not know what, if anything, needs to be done with the reset temperature guage on the side.

I have turned it on and off and also unplugged it, waited, then plugged it back in. The burner does ignite as I do see it glowing when looking into the front. The valve is open inside and also outside on the tank. It makes a ticking or tapping noise when it is heating up.

monitor heater flame rod

Please can someone help me with this, we are freezing up here in the Northeast! I'm going to assume you have only one line coming from your fuel tank. If this is so, you now have air in that line as you said you ran out of fuel. What you are experiencing is the burner cannot maintain a proper flame without a solid liquid flow to pressurize the nozzle. You need only bleed your pump. There will be a small fitting, not too far from where the K-1 comes into the pump.

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It will likely have a hex nut on it and a small nipple that you can attach a small hose to. After attaching the hose, you crack open the fitting its attached to. Push your reset button and turn on the heater.

Foam will probably come out first, and possibly your heater will time out because while bleeding, you can't maintain a proper flame either and the system will shut down - this is OK. Wait a couple minutes and reset it again. Soon you should see relatively clear K At this moment you hand tighten that fitting and remove the hose. Your burner should be fine now. System with two lines from the tank almost always can self-prime and do not require bleeding. If you have two lines and have the problems you describe, you need a service man.

If you've already bled the system, you may need to replace your filter and nozzle. After this you may need to adjust your electrodes or finally your pump may have a screen which could get plugged over time. Not difficult to replace either, and only a couple of bucks. Again, if these don't get you out of that jam, you need a competent service person. Where is the pump? Are we talking about a pump in the machine? I have a mpi monitor I had fuel delivered and now my heater acts like it is trying to turn on but the flame only burns for a second then goes out, makes the machine turn off and the lights start flashing.

monitor heater flame rod

I have bleed the line at the fuel prime button as well as at the tank itself. Help me. Why won't the flame stay lit.Monitor Parts Online Monitor 20 22 The basic service parts for all the 22, btu kerosene heaters are the same.

When ordering always specify the exact model that you have. We may actually still have parts in stock for that model. So if you have one of these oldies call for available inventory and tech support. Don't delay your order add shipping when required. Monitor Flame Rod Gasket M The most used service part for Monitor Heaters If you have a carbon bridge on the flame rod you will need to replace this gasket when servicing the flame rod.

If your Monitor is intermitent because the flame ring is expanding you can often double up the Flame Rod Gasket to get a few more years of use before you need to rebuild. Monitor Combustion Ring M On Monitor Heater the Combustion Ring is the most common part to fail. The Heater must be totally disassembled to replace the combustion ring. Monitor Burner Pot M You can clean and rebuild a burner pot by replacing the mat.

Often the Burner Pot has cracks around the fuel inlet and must be replaced. Monitor Base Door Gasket M If your Monitor needs a simple combustion chamber cleaning the Base Door Gasket often gets destroyed in the process. Monitor Igniter Cover Gasket M Igniter Cover Gasket often is reusable if it stays in place during disassembly. Monitor Inner Gasket M Inner gasket, Burner pot to heat chamber.

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Supplied with new Burner Pot. Monitor Igniter Gasket M Igniter Gasket, Inner. The gasket that slides over end of Igniter. Monitor Base Gasket M The base Base Gasket mounts the Burner Pot to case.

Often this gasket can be reused if it stays in place during a rebuild. Monitor O Ring for Solenoid M A broken o-ring can cause the air damper solenoid to jam. Mounts on solenoid shaft in air damper.The Monitor is a computerized kerosene heater. Neatness always counts, I say. Just not around here. The lower front cover that goes below the louvers is elsewhere, but safe. Here the top panel is ajar and the upper front panel is off. Down in the lower right corner, M21 is a sophisticated float bowl where the kero comes from the back.

The yellow solenoid on top of M21 is a plunger pump that sends the kero thru the thin copper pipe to the burner. Above that pipe entry is a flame detector that allows start sequence, and shuts down if flame is lost for any reason.

The bulged cover at the burner bottom gives access to the ceramic igniter rod. The combustion air blower housing is on the back, taking outside air and sending it under slight pressure across the bottom and up into the "Combustion Chamber", where the burner pot lives.

Yes, a chamber pot. Behind that circuit panel on the front is a cavity for a removable 1. The left one with all the dust is near the burner, which may account for the amount of dust compared to the relatively clean right side. Just got the covers off. Here is the burner pot with flame ring removed. Fuel comes in on the left.

Igniter port at top. Upside down burner ring shows slight heat warpage on upper half. After cleaning. Heat fan was removed from the back to clean blades and grill. Also pulled the combustion fan housing on the back to clean little fan blades on expensive motor. It had rubber oil hole plugs on both ends, so each got a drop of Mobil Lab results not back yet. Dust accumulation on the underside of the two control panel PCBs.

Cover is removed from the burner and heat exchanger. This is the exhaust outlet that plugs into the wall manifold.

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Old pot and new pot. Flame ring rest screws can be seen in the new pot. Closer view of controller card.Monitor Parts Online Monitor 40 41 The basic service parts for all the 40, btu kerosene heaters are the same. When ordering always specify the exact model that you have.

Don't delay your order add shipping when required. Monitor Flame Rod Gasket M The most used service part for Monitor Heaters If you have a carbon bridge on the flame rod you will need to replace this gasket when servicing the flame rod. If your Monitor intermittent because the flame ring is warping you can often double up the Flame Rod Gasket to get a few more years of use before you need to rebuild.

Monitor Burner Ring M The Flame Ring or Burner Ring on the Monitor often warps with time causing intermittent operation and soot buildup. It can be replaced through the access to the combustion chamber. Make sure you also order the chamber gasket below.

Monitor Heater Flame Detective Plug Sensor part # 6355

Monitor Burner Pot M You can clean and rebuild a burner pot by replacing the mat. Often the Burner Pot has cracks around the fuel inlet and must be replaced. Monitor Bearing M Whining blower motor bearings can be replaced. This does take some level of mechanical skill. Sold as a pair. When replacing blower motor bearings remember to replace the Solenoid O-ring at this time.

Monitor Blower Motor M The blower motor blows the combustion air inside the heater. Sometimes the blower motor can not be repaired by just bearing replacement and needs to be replaced. Water damage and corrosion may require a total motor replacement. Monitor Circulation Fan Motor M The circulation fan motor powers the fan that blows the hot air. It is in the fan cage on the back of the heater, is easy to replace Monitor Solenoid O-ring M A broken o-ring can cause the air damper solenoid to jam.

Mounts on solenoid shaft in air damper. Monitor Door Base Gasket M The main gasket that is needed when cleaning the combustion chamber.

Monitor Heater Parts, Service & Repairs Near Me : R.F. Ohl

Monitor Igniter M Replacement igniter for M M M41 and M Also order M igniter inner gasket required. To determine if your igniter is bad check it with a VOM.

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